Squalene in Skincare: The Natural Emollient Your Skin Will Love

CAS Number 111-02-4

INCI Name Squalene

Squalene is a natural compound in human sebum and plants, used in cosmetics as a lightweight emollient and moisturizer. It restores the skin’s lipid barrier, locks in moisture, and protects against environmental damage with antioxidant properties. Squalene mimics natural skin oils and complements hyaluronic acid. Its formula is C30H50.

Purpose

Squalene is a natural antioxidant that protects skin from UV damage and pollution. As an emollient and moisturizer, it softens, smooths, and hydrates by restoring the skin’s lipid barrier. It also refats and conditions the skin, improving texture and suppleness. Additionally, this provides mild UV filtering to help prevent sun damage.

Origin

Squalene is mainly derived from natural sources like shark liver oil, olives, and sugarcane. It is obtained using methods such as centrifugation and solvent extraction. After extraction, squalene is purified to eliminate impurities and guarantee high quality.

Skin-Identical Molecule

One of the most remarkable features of squalene is its close resemblance to the skin’s natural sebum. As a lipid naturally produced by human skin cells, this is highly biocompatible, meaning it’s easily recognized and absorbed without causing irritation or adverse reactions. This compatibility makes it exceptionally effective in delivering hydration deep into the skin layers, nourishing the skin barrier, and providing a smooth, silky texture. Its skin-identical nature also means it integrates seamlessly with the skin’s natural lipid structure, making it an ideal choice for even the most sensitive or reactive skin types.

Natural Antioxidant

Squalene functions as a powerful antioxidant, helping to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors such as UV radiation and pollution. Oxidative stress is one of the primary causes of premature skin aging, leading to fine lines, wrinkles, and a loss of elasticity. By neutralizing free radicals, squalene helps to prevent cellular damage, maintain skin firmness, and preserve a youthful appearance. Its antioxidant properties not only benefit the skin but also contribute to extending the shelf life of formulations in which it’s included.

Non-Comedogenic and Lightweight

Despite being an oil-based ingredient, squalene is surprisingly lightweight and non-comedogenic. It does not clog pores, making it an excellent moisturizer for all skin types, including those prone to acne, blackheads, and congestion. Its light texture allows it to absorb quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy or sticky residue. This characteristic sets it apart from heavier oils that might suffocate the skin or exacerbate breakouts. Its versatility makes it a preferred choice in formulations designed for oily, combination, and sensitive skin.

Highly Stable in Its Hydrogenated Form (Squalane)

While natural squalene is beneficial, it is inherently unstable and prone to oxidation when exposed to air, heat, or light. To improve its stability and extend its usability in cosmetic formulations, squalene is often hydrogenated to produce squalane. This hydrogenated form retains all the moisturizing and skin-soothing benefits of squalene while offering significantly enhanced stability. Squalane resists oxidation and maintains its efficacy in various conditions, making it more suitable for commercial skincare and personal care products. Its stability also contributes to longer-lasting shelf life in finished products.

Supports Skin Barrier Function

Squalene plays a vital role in supporting and maintaining the skin’s natural lipid barrier. This barrier is essential for retaining moisture, protecting against external aggressors, and preventing transepidermal water loss. By reinforcing this protective barrier, squalene helps the skin remain hydrated, smooth, and resilient. It reduces the risk of dryness, flakiness, and irritation, especially in individuals with compromised or sensitive skin. Regular use of squalene-containing products can improve overall skin texture and barrier function, leading to healthier, more balanced skin over time.

Multipurpose Usage

One of the most appealing features of squalene is its versatility. It serves multiple functions in cosmetic and personal care products, acting as an emollient, antioxidant, carrier oil, and moisturizing agent. In skincare, it is commonly found in facial oils, serums, moisturizers, sunscreens, and anti-aging formulations. In hair care, it works as a lightweight oil to moisturize and protect strands without weighing them down. Additionally, squalene is used in makeup products, such as foundations and lipsticks, to improve texture and spreadability while offering skin-conditioning benefits.

Ethical and Plant-Derived Options

Historically, squalene was sourced from shark liver oil, leading to ethical and environmental concerns. Today, advancements in extraction techniques have made it possible to obtain high-quality squalene from plant-based sources such as olives, sugarcane, amaranth, and rice bran. These alternatives are cruelty-free, vegan-friendly, and sustainable, aligning with modern consumers’ growing preference for ethical beauty products. Plant-derived squalene retains the same benefits as its animal-derived counterpart, making it a superior choice for environmentally conscious cosmetic formulations.

Storage and Shelf Life

Proper storage is crucial to maintaining the quality and efficacy of squalene, particularly in its natural, unsaturated form. Natural squalene should be kept in airtight, light-protected containers and stored in a cool, dry place at temperatures below 25°C (77°F). Exposure to air, light, and heat can accelerate oxidation, causing the oil to develop an unpleasant odor and lose its beneficial properties. Under optimal storage conditions, natural squalene typically has a shelf life of six to twelve months.

In contrast, squalane—the hydrogenated, stable form of squalene—is far less prone to oxidation and degradation. It can be stored in well-sealed containers at room temperature, away from direct sunlight and excessive heat. Thanks to its enhanced stability, squalane boasts a significantly longer shelf life of approximately twenty-four to thirty-six months. This improved shelf stability makes squalane an ideal ingredient for long-lasting cosmetic formulations, ensuring product performance and safety throughout its commercial life cycle.

Applications of Squalene in Skincare

Intense Moisturization

Squalene acts as a lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient that deeply hydrates the skin. It softens and smooths without leaving a greasy residue, making it ideal for daily moisturizers and facial oils.

Antioxidant Protection

As a natural antioxidant, squalene shields the skin from environmental damage and oxidative stress. It helps prevent premature aging by neutralizing free radicals, reducing fine lines and loss of elasticity.

Barrier Strengthening

Squalene supports the skin’s natural barrier by replenishing essential lipids. It prevents moisture loss and protects against external irritants, benefiting sensitive, dry, and damaged skin.

Safe for Acne-Prone Skin

Non-comedogenic and lightweight, squalene hydrates without clogging pores. It balances oil production, making it a reliable choice for oily, combination, and blemish-prone skin.

Enhances Product Texture

Squalene improves the spreadability and feel of skincare products. It creates a silky texture in creams, serums, sunscreens, and cleansing oils while boosting product performance.

Multipurpose Ingredient

Thanks to its versatility, squalene is used across moisturizers, anti-aging treatments, sunscreens, cleansers, and soothing balms. It’s suitable for all skin types and integrates easily into varied formulations.