Glyceryl Oleate: Skin-Conditioning Agent

INCI Name   :    GLYCERYL OLEATE

CAS Number    :    25496-72-4 / 111-03-5 / 67701-32-0 / 37220-82-9

Glyceryl Oleate, also known as glyceryl monooleate, is an ester formed from glycerin and oleic acid. It appears as a clear or lightly colored liquid and is derived from natural fats such as olive, peanut, or pecan oil. Primarily used as a co-emulsifier and stabilizer, it helps create stable water-oil emulsions. Its molecular weight is 356.5, and its chemical formula is C21H40O4.

Purpose 

Glyceryl Oleate emulsifies the water and oil phases to form stable water-in-oil emulsions. It also acts as a stabilizer and thickener in oil-in-water formulations. Due to its re-fatting properties, it is widely used in personal care products such as shower gels and hair shampoos.

Origin

Glyceryl Oleate is made by breaking down fats like tri- and diglycerides, combining glycerol with oleic acid, or using fats and oils, such as those from pine sap. A common way to make it in industry is through a process called glycerolysis, where glycerol reacts with fats or oils to create monoglycerides like glyceryl oleate.

Glyceryl Oleate is a monoester derived from glycerin and oleic acid. It is a component of both hair and skin lipids, offering re-fating properties. As an emulsifier and nonionic co-surfactant, it is widely used in various skin and hair care products.

Emulsifying Agent:

Glyceryl Oleate is an efficient emulsifier that aids in the formation of stable water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. This ability is vital for creating emulsions where the oil phase is dominant, such as in rich creams, ointments, and balms. By reducing the interfacial tension between water and oil molecules, it ensures that the mixture remains homogeneous over time without separation. This property also makes it indispensable in the formulation of thick creams and lotions that need to provide long-lasting hydration.

Co-Emulsifier in Oil-in-Water (O/W) Formulations:

While Glyceryl Oleate is best known for creating W/O emulsions, it can also function as a co-emulsifier in oil-in-water formulations. In O/W emulsions, it works alongside other emulsifiers to stabilize the emulsion, enhance texture, and improve the overall appearance and feel of the product. This versatility allows formulators to create products like moisturizers, facial creams, and serums with optimal consistency and stability.

Conditioning Agent:

Glyceryl Oleate is an excellent conditioner for both skin and hair. As an emollient, it forms a protective layer over the skin that enhances its smoothness and moisture retention. It softens and nourishes the skin, making it a key ingredient in formulations designed for dry, sensitive, or damaged skin. For hair care, it helps to smooth the cuticle, improving shine, softness, and manageability without the need for heavy silicones. It also contributes to detangling and adds a natural, non-greasy shine to the hair.

Biodegradable and Eco-Friendly:

Glyceryl Oleate is biodegradable, making it a sustainable alternative to other synthetic ingredients like silicones and petrochemical-derived emulsifiers. It is derived from natural sources, such as olive oil, and is eco-friendly, as it breaks down naturally in the environment, posing minimal risk of environmental harm. This makes it a desirable option for formulators creating “green” or eco-conscious products.

Nourishing and Restorative:

Glyceryl Oleate is rich in oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that is found in natural oils like olive oil. Oleic acid is known for its ability to nourish and replenish the skin’s lipid barrier, promoting the healing of dry, cracked skin. In hair care, it helps to restore moisture to damaged hair by enhancing the strength and elasticity of hair fibers. Its restorative properties make it especially beneficial for those with sensitive skin, eczema, or dry scalp conditions.

Mild and Gentle:

Glyceryl Oleate is non-irritating and considered gentle on the skin, making it an ideal choice for formulations targeting sensitive skin or baby products. Unlike harsher synthetic surfactants, it provides all the benefits of emulsification and conditioning without causing irritation or discomfort. This makes it suitable for dermatologically-tested products, especially in the formulation of cleansers, moisturizers, and shampoos for delicate skin.

Improves Product Texture and Spreadability:

Glyceryl Oleate improves the spreadability of products, allowing them to glide smoothly over the skin or hair. In lotions and creams, it provides a silky, non-greasy finish, enhancing the sensory experience for the user. It helps create a luxurious texture that absorbs quickly without leaving residue, making the product more enjoyable to use.

Enhances Foam and Lather:

In shampoos, shower gels, and other cleansing formulations, Glyceryl Oleate can improve the foaming properties. It helps create a rich, stable lather that enhances the user experience and makes the product more effective at cleansing while remaining gentle on the skin.

Non-Comedogenic:

Glyceryl Oleate is generally considered non-comedogenic, meaning it does not clog pores. This makes it a great option for use in facial care products, particularly for those with oily or acne-prone skin. It hydrates and nourishes without contributing to breakouts, offering a more natural alternative to heavier oils.

Natural Gloss and Shine in Hair Care:

Glyceryl Oleate provides a natural shine to the hair without the synthetic gloss produced by silicones. It smooths the hair shaft, reducing frizz and enhancing hair’s luster and bounce. It can also act as a detangler, making it easier to comb through hair after washing.

Safety Profile:

Glyceryl Oleate is classified as “Generally Recognized As Safe” (GRAS) by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), meaning it is considered safe for consumption. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has thoroughly evaluated its safety and determined that Glyceryl Oleate is safe to use in cosmetics when following the current usage and concentration guidelines. Additionally, the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) has recognized Glyceryl Oleate as a substance that is easily biodegradable and poses minimal risk of bioaccumulation or toxicity to aquatic life.

Applications of Glyceryl Oleate:

Creams and Lotions: Glyceryl Oleate is widely used in moisturizing creams and lotions due to its ability to stabilize emulsions and enhance the texture of the product. It helps to form smooth, creamy formulations by combining water and oils, making the product easier to apply and enhancing skin hydration.

Shampoos: In hair care, Glyceryl Oleate serves as a mild emulsifier and conditioning agent in shampoos. It helps to blend water and oils, providing a smooth texture while ensuring the product lathers well. Its re-fatting properties are especially beneficial in restoring moisture to hair that might be stripped away during washing.

Shower Gels: Used in shower gels for its emulsifying and stabilizing properties, Glyceryl Oleate helps to create a pleasant texture and enhances the product’s ability to cleanse while maintaining skin moisture. Its re-fatting abilities contribute to leaving the skin feeling soft and moisturized after use.

Liquid Soaps: Glyceryl Oleate is used in liquid soaps as a co-emulsifier and stabilizer. It aids in forming a consistent, creamy texture and ensures that the oil and water components stay properly mixed. The product becomes gentler on the skin due to its moisturizing properties.

Hair Pomades: In hair pomades, Glyceryl Oleate helps to provide the necessary texture and smoothness for easy application. It also helps to maintain hair’s moisture balance, preventing it from drying out, and improves the product’s spreadability, giving hair a healthy, shiny look.

Skin Care: As an emollient, Glyceryl Oleate conditions the skin, helping to keep products well-mixed while also binding moisture to the skin. This makes it a common ingredient in lotions, sunscreens, and various other cosmetic products, where it enhances skin hydration and smoothness.