Ascorbyl Glucoside: A Stable Vitamin C Derivative for Radiant Skin

CAS number 129499-78-1

INCI name   Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable Vitamin C derivative widely used in skincare and cosmetics for its antioxidant and brightening effects. This water-soluble compound combines ascorbic acid with glucose, improving its stability and enhancing skin absorption. It effectively neutralizes free radicals, minimizing oxidative stress and shielding the skin from environmental damage. 

Purpose

The antioxidant purpose of Ascorbyl Glucoside is to neutralize free radicals, reducing oxidative stress that can lead to premature aging, skin dullness, and damage from environmental aggressors like UV rays and pollution. By protecting skin cells from oxidative damage, it helps maintain a youthful, healthy complexion while enhancing overall skin resilience.

Origin

Ascorbyl Glucoside is derived through the enzymatic or chemical bonding of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and glucose. This synthesis process occurs under controlled conditions, where catalysts or enzymes facilitate the formation of a stable, water-soluble compound. By combining these two molecules, Ascorbyl Glucoside retains the beneficial properties of Vitamin C while enhancing its stability and effectiveness. Its chemical formula is C12H18O11.

Superior Stability Compared to Pure Vitamin C

Ascorbyl Glucoside is far more stable than L-ascorbic acid, which degrades rapidly when exposed to air, light, or heat. This enhanced stability ensures that skincare formulations maintain their potency over time, providing consistent benefits without the need for airtight or dark packaging.

Water-Soluble & Versatile for Formulations

Unlike oil-soluble Vitamin C derivatives, Ascorbyl Glucoside dissolves readily in water, allowing for easy incorporation into a wide range of skincare products, including serums, creams, lotions, and toners. Its compatibility with water-based formulations makes it highly versatile and effective in different product types.

Gradual, Controlled Release of Active Vitamin C

When applied to the skin, Ascorbyl Glucoside is enzymatically converted into pure ascorbic acid by α-glucosidase, an enzyme naturally present in the skin. This gradual conversion allows for a sustained release of Vitamin C over time, maximizing its skin benefits while minimizing the rapid degradation associated with pure ascorbic acid.

Gentle on Sensitive Skin

Many Vitamin C derivatives, particularly L-ascorbic acid, can be highly acidic and irritating, especially for those with sensitive or reactive skin. Ascorbyl Glucoside has a neutral pH (around 5–7), making it far less likely to cause irritation, redness, or stinging while still delivering brightening and antioxidant benefits.

Powerful Antioxidant & Free Radical Scavenger

One of Ascorbyl Glucoside’s primary functions is its ability to neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that damage skin cells and accelerate aging. By reducing oxidative stress caused by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental factors, it helps protect the skin from premature aging, dullness, and the breakdown of collagen.

Brightens Skin & Reduces Hyperpigmentation

Ascorbyl Glucoside works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin production. By regulating melanin synthesis, it effectively fades dark spots, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), leading to a more even and radiant complexion. This makes it an excellent choice for individuals dealing with uneven skin tone or pigmentation issues.

Boosts Collagen Production & Improves Skin Elasticity

Collagen is essential for maintaining firm, youthful skin, but its production naturally declines with age. Ascorbyl Glucoside stimulates fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen synthesis, helping to improve skin elasticity, smooth out fine lines, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles over time.

Protects Against UV Damage & Photoaging

While Ascorbyl Glucoside is not a replacement for sunscreen, it enhances the skin’s natural defense against UV-induced damage. By reducing oxidative stress and inflammation, it helps prevent the formation of sunspots, fine lines, and other signs of photoaging, making it an excellent addition to morning skincare routines.

Non-Oily, Lightweight, & Fast-Absorbing

Thanks to its water-soluble nature, Ascorbyl Glucoside absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy or sticky residue. This makes it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin, as it won’t clog pores or contribute to excess shine.

Minimal Risk of Irritation, Even with Long-Term Use

Unlike some potent Vitamin C derivatives that can cause irritation with prolonged use, Ascorbyl Glucoside remains well-tolerated over time. This makes it an excellent choice for individuals who want to incorporate Vitamin C into their routine without the risk of sensitivity or redness.

Ideal for Daily Use, Morning & Night

Due to its gentle nature and stability, Ascorbyl Glucoside can be used both in the morning (to protect against environmental stressors) and at night (to repair and rejuvenate the skin).

Proven Efficacy in Clinical Studies

Research has shown that Ascorbyl Glucoside effectively brightens skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, and enhances skin firmness. Its ability to release active Vitamin C gradually allows for prolonged benefits, making it one of the most effective and well-tolerated Vitamin C derivatives available.

Suitable for All Skin Types, Including Sensitive & Acne-Prone Skin

• Dry Skin: Works well in hydrating formulations when combined with humectants like hyaluronic acid.
• Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Lightweight, non-greasy texture ensures it won’t clog pores.
• Sensitive Skin: Mild and non-irritating, making it ideal for those who cannot tolerate L-ascorbic acid.

Applications of Ascorbyl Glucoside

Skincare & Cosmetics

• Brightening Serums: Found in Vitamin C serums designed to reduce hyperpigmentation, enhance radiance, and even out skin tone.
• Anti-Aging Creams: Used in formulations that promote collagen production, reduce fine lines, and improve skin elasticity.
• Moisturizers & Hydrating Gels: Incorporated into daily skincare products to provide antioxidant protection and long-lasting hydration.
• Sunscreen & UV Protection Products: Combined with SPF to enhance skin defense against free radicals and UV-induced damage.
• Eye Creams: Helps diminish dark circles and prevent premature aging around the delicate eye area.
• Face Masks & Treatment Ampoules: Used in intensive skin-repair treatments for enhanced glow and skin rejuvenation.

Hair Care

• Shampoos & Conditioners: Added to protect hair from environmental damage and maintain scalp health.
• Leave-In Treatments: Used in hair serums to strengthen strands, reduce oxidative stress, and prevent dullness.

Personal Care Products

• Body Lotions & Creams: Helps improve skin tone and prevent aging effects on the body.
• Hand Creams: Used to protect against environmental stressors and improve skin texture.